India Day Nine

My last day in the park proved much quieter than its predecessors. Frankly, it was a relief. I’ve seen so many amazing things in the past few days that it’s gotten a little overwhelming. If luck is a finite quality, then it’s time for me to pass my tiger sighting fortune over to another visitor.

In the morning the guide decided to take advantage of the lull in wildlife photo ops to head for the Bandhavgarh Fort plateau. Though the fort itself is off limits, there’s a colossal statue of Lord Vishnu that can be visited, one of the few spots in the park where it’s permissible to get out of the jeep and wander around a little.

The statue was on the side of the plateau, accessible via a series of narrow switchbacks. In addition to some hair-raising moments, the road afforded some interesting views.

At one point we passed a spot where stables for horses had been carved out of the bedrock.

And higher up we passed a similar rock-hewn structure that once upon a time served as a court for tax paying and other official business.

We also passes several ghost trees, so called because their pale bark glows an eerie white in the moonlight.

At the end of the trail was the statue at the top of this post. The main figure is Lord Vishnu reclining on the Sheshnaag, the seven-headed serpent king. A spring emerges from the hillside near his feet, flowing into a pool and from there down the side of the plateau to form a stream in the countryside below.

There are some places that somehow just seem to feel different from ordinary everyday locations. This was one of those. If nothing else, it was awe-inspiring to see a work of art carved from a single piece of rock more than 1000 years ago. I’ve seen art that old and older, but never in its original location.

After that experience we gave up a little early. The afternoon drive was uneventful as well. But as I said, that was actually welcome. It gave me time to contemplate, to process the experiences I’d had on this amazing journey.

Toward sunset we passed a large stork walking around a swampy area not far from the plateau. The guide said it was unusual to see that kind of bird away from herds of cattle or deer. They like to follow the heavier animals through marshy spots because their hoofs stir worms and snails out of the muddy ground. Good eating.